De-alcoholised wines, new EU rules and high growth potential. The ABC
DiDario Dongo— Giorgio Perrone
08/02/2022
3283
De-alcoholised wines – i.e. deprived of all or part of alcohol – are now subject to new EU rules, in view of their high growth potential on international markets.
The reform of the CAP (Common Agricultural Policy, EU regulation 2117/2021), the resolutions of OIV (Organization International de la vigne et du Vin), Wine Monitor surveys. The ABC to follow.
1) Dealcoholization of wines, EU rules
1.1) Partial dealcoholisation of wines, reg. CE 606/09 and following
The European legislator had introduced the partial dealcoholisation of wines starting from 2009 (reg. CE 606/09, reg. UE 1308/2013, now repealed), to allow the correction of their excessive alcoholic levels caused by global warming and the high sugars in the grapes. (1) Setting, in his time, three strict limits:
– this practice was allowed only on generic wines, therefore excluding IGT, DOC and DOCG,
– the reduction could not exceed 20% of the original alcohol content,
– the alcohol content of the final product must not be less than 9 degrees. (1)
1.2) De-alcoholised wines, reg. EU 2021/2117. CAP reform, single CMO, GIs
the 2.12.21 The European Parliament and the Council have adopted the formal agreement on the reform of the CAP 2023-2027. In this context, the measures of interest to the wine sector include:
– revision of the rules on the definition of Geographical Indications (GIs, eg. DOP, IGP, TSG, DOC, DOCG),
– nutritional labeling and ingredient list, with various exceptions (eg electronic labeling. See EU regulation 2021/2117, art.3.5)
– authorization to produce de-alcoholised wines.
The reg. EU 2021/2117 thus amended EU regulations 1308/2013 (single CMO), 1151/2012 (quality schemes for agricultural and food products), 251/2014 (definition, designation, presentation, labeling and protection of geographical indications of aromatised wine products) and 228/2013 (specific measures in the agricultural sector for the outermost regions of the Union). (2)
1.3) Dealcoholization of wines, accepted techniques
‘It is authorized each of the dealcoholization processes listed below, used individually or in conjunction with other dealcoholization processes listed, to partially or almost totally reduce the ethanol content in the wine products referred to in Annex VII, Part II, point 1) and points 4) to 9) [wine, sparkling wine, quality sparkling wine, quality aromatic sparkling wine, gasified sparkling wine, sparkling wine, gasified sparkling wine, ed]:
a) partial evaporation under vacuum;
b) membrane techniques;
c) distillation.
The dealcoholization processes used do not give rise to organoleptic defects in wine products. The elimination of ethanol in the wine product must not be carried out in combination with an increase in the sugar content of the grape must‘(reg. 2021/2117, art. 1.75.av).
1.4) ‘dealcoholised’, ‘partially dealcoholised’ wine
The name of the vitivinicultural products indicated above (eg wine, semi-sparkling wine and sparkling wine) must be integrated with the words ‘dealcoholised’ or ‘partially dealcoholised’, as appropriate.
‘The category designation is accompanied:
– from the term « dealcoholized« If the actual alcoholic strength of the product does not exceed 0.5% vol;
– from the term « partially dealcoholized« If the actual strength of the product does not exceed 0,5% vol. and is lower than the minimum effective alcoholic strength of the category that precedes the dealcoholization‘(EU reg 2021/2117, art.116-bis, paragraph 32).
The labels of dealcoholised wines with an alcoholic strength of less than 10% must also include the minimum shelf life, the nutritional declaration and the list of ingredients among the mandatory indications. Thus will emerge the ‘alien sugars‘(e.g. cane, beet) used in some EU member countries where the practice of ‘sugaring’ in wines.
2) Dealcoholization of wine products, OIV resolutions
The EU rules – as regards the allowed oenological practices and technologies – are based on the resolutions of OIV, the intergovernmental body of reference in the field of grapes, wines, wine-based beverages and other products of the vineyard. We refer in particular to resolutions OIV-ECO 523-2016, OIV-ECO 433-2012 and OIV-ECO 432-2012.
2.1) Resolution OIV-OENO 394 A-2012
The resolution OIV-OENO 394 A-2012 defines the dealcoholization process of wines as a procedure which consists in the subtraction of part or almost all of the ethanol contained in wines. It refers to the three separation techniques then implemented in the reg. UE 2021/2117 (partial evaporation under vacuum, membrane and distillation techniques). And specifies the conditions:
– wines must not present ‘organoleptic defects,
– the elimination of ethanol from wine must not be carried out if the sugar content of the must from which it comes has been previously increased,
– the percentage of ethanol may be reduced in accordance with the product definitions which specify, inter alia, the limits of the alcoholic strength by volume,
– the procedure will be placed under the responsibility of an oenologist or a specialized technician‘. (4)
The ‘membrane techniques’ – in accordance with the provisions of resolution OIV-ENO 373B-2010 (5) – include the so-called reverse osmosis. That is to say the reintegration of the vegetation water (see next paragraph 4), which has nothing to do with Coldiretti’s nonsense about a hypothetical ‘watering down’ of the drinks. (6)
3) Alcohol-free, high potential
3.1) Growing global demand
The global demand of ‘zero alcohol’ wines or wines with a reduced alcohol content has increased significantly in recent years. And it can experience exponential growth, according to Wine Monitor’s analysis:
– 70% of consumers on the planet do not drink alcohol,
– in the USA, the first country in the world for wine consumption (33 million hl in 2020, OIE data), 33% of consumers are reducing their alcohol intake. By reducing consumption opportunities (19%) or by choosing alcohol-free or reduced-content drinks (14%), (7)
– UK, Ireland, Belgium and Holland, Switzerland, Canada, Australia and Japan record the same trends, in strong growth especially among young people and among men, in every age group, compared to women. This explains the success of the light drinks quality in the UK. (8)
3.2) ‘Alcohol-free’ consumers
The polls on regular wine consumers carried out by Wine Monitor – in addition to confirming, from a different perspective, the overall drop in consumption detected at a macroeconomic level by the OIV itself (9) – they indicate the various reasons for the choices of de-alcoholised wines:
– the positive effects on health are the first reason (57%). It is certainly not the regular consumers of wine who demonize their consumption, but who feel the favorable impact of the reduction of alcohol which also passes through the consumption of zero alcohol beverages. As demonstrated by the extraordinary success of the Dry January initiative, (10)
– taste is the second reason (48%). Outstanding among young people who, moreover, favor poké with fish & chips,
– the will and / or need to maintain lucidity and self-control is in third place (43%),
– the lower calorie intake is also considered (40%), the more in the era of lockdown.
3.3) No alcohol, low alcohol. A train not to be missed
UIV – Italian Wines Union, the first Italian trade association – has well grasped avery high market potential‘of wine products’zero alcohol‘ and ‘low alcohol‘. Rather than hiding behind ideological trenches, it is necessary to ensure that this sector is properly regulated, so that the innovative products that in any case derive from tradition retain their value in the vineyard and in the cellar. Big drinks in fact it has already expanded into the segment of carbonated drinks with low alcohol content, from alcopops to hard soda (11,12).
The train it is on the run and must be caught quickly, not least in order not to lag behind other producing countries. France, Spain, Germany, Belgium, Chile, Australia. Just look around or search ‘zero alcohol wine‘or’ dealcoholised wines’ to realize. Italy is the leading wine producer in the world and is however far behind in this segment which, moreover, allows for the enhancement of common wines, often still in surplus or sold below cost. And the dealcoholation cost, about € 0,50 / l, is amply offset by the savings on excise duties on production,import, purpose taxes, VAT / VAT penalizing in the various countries of the world.
4) Oenological practices
4.1) Natural methods
The alcohol removal provided for by resolution OIV-OENO 394 A-2012 and by reg. UE 2021/2117 is carried out with physical methods, natural processes in accordance with ISO / TS 19657. How:
– reverse osmosis, where the wine is passed through semi-permeable membranes at high pressure (up to 40 atm), obtaining a mixture of vegetation water – rich in phenolic compounds and other compounds – and alcohol. The latter is separated by distillation, while the vegetation water is reintegrated into the original wine to reduce its alcohol content,
– vacuum evaporation. Thanks to a low vacuum pressure on the wine (80 mbar) the alcohol evaporates at a low temperature (35 °) in less than 6 minutes. This technique limits the loss of volatile aromas and guarantees a better conservation of the organoleptic qualities of the wine, up to an alcohol content of less than 0,05%. Evaporation, however, tends to subtract the perfumes, as they are volatile molecules.
4.2) The oenologist’s challenge
Even among Italian winemakers there are those who look at de-alcoholised wine as an opportunity. Jacopo Vagaggini for example, in acknowledging that dealcoholated wine is a product in itself, he recognizes that it does not represent a threat but a new market segment that wine producers should consider. (13) De-alcoholised wines must also be treated in their entirety and the subtraction of alcohol has a significant impact both on the structure, which loses the characteristic ‘oiliness’, and on the aromatic profiles which tend to increase acidity and astringency. .
The challenge of the oenologist is to maintain the balance of the wine in its three main acid, sweet and bitter components. It is therefore necessary to add ingredients such as concentrated must (4-5 g / 100 ml) and gum arabic, in compliance with oenological standards. And reduce acidity and tannins, with the sparing addition of deacidifiers and clarifiers (to limit their effect of impoverishing the structure. Without losing sight, we add, the growing attention of consumers towards organic wines and natural wines.
Dario Dongo and Giorgio Perrone
Footnotes
(1) Dario Dongo, Andrea Alberto Della Penna. De-alcoholated wine and CMO reform, a bit of clarity. GIFTS (Great Italian Food Trade). 21.5.21/XNUMX/XNUMX, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/mercati/vino-dealcolato-e-riforma-dell-ocm-un-po-di-chiarezza
(2) Regulation (EU) 2021/2117, amending regulations (EU) no. 1308/2013 establishing the common organization of the markets for agricultural products, (EU) no. 1151/2012 on quality schemes for agricultural and food products, (EU) no. 251/2014 concerning the definition, designation, presentation, labeling and protection of geographical indications of aromatised wine products and (EU) no. 228/2013 containing specific measures in the agricultural sector in favor of the outermost regions of the Union. See article 1, paragraph 70.e, 74.b, 75.5 https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2021/2117/oj
(3) https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/IT/TXT/HTML/?from=IT&uri=CELEX%3A32011R1169
(4) Resolution OIV-OENO 394A-2012, 22.6.12. Dealcoholization of wines.https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/1490/oiv-oeno-394a-2012-it.pdf
(5) Resolution OIV / ENO 373B / 2010, 25.6.10. Use of membrane techniques.https://www.oiv.int/public/medias/1275/oiv-eno-373b-2010-it.pdf
(6) EU: now Brussels wants to water down the wine. The Coldiretti Point. 6.5.21, https://www.coldiretti.it/economia/ue-ora-bruxelles-vuole-annacquare-il-vino
(7) https://www.wineintelligence.com/gen-z-and-millennial-consumers-in-the-us-look-to-purchase-lower-and-non-alcoholic-wine-more-than-older -drinkers-motivated-by-aligning-with-their-peer-group-and-reducing-calorie-intake/
(8) Dario Dongo. Quality zero alcohol bubbles, the unexpected success on the UK market. GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade). 3.1.20/XNUMX/XNUMX, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/progresso/bollicine-di-qualità-a-zero-alcol-l-inatteso-successo-sul-mercato-uk
(9) Per and Britt Karlsson. Wine Consumption In The World 2020 In Decline, A Detailed Look. Forbes. 31.12.21, https://www.forbes.com/sites/karlsson/2021/12/31/wine-consumption-in-the-world-2020-in-decline-a-detailed-look/?sh=18ef326f3f71
(10) Dario Dongo. Dry January, a month of alcohol-free lightness. Seeing is believing.GIFTS (Great Italian Food Trade). 31.12.21/XNUMX/XNUMX, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/salute/dry-january-un-mese-di-leggerezza-senza-alcol-provare-per-credere
(11) Dario Dongo, Alcopops, the ABC. Labels to be redone. GIFTS (Great Italian Food Trade). 15.8.19/XNUMX/XNUMX, https://www.greatitalianfoodtrade.it/etichette/alcopops-l-abc-etichette-da-rifare
(12) Marion Nestle. The coming influence of hard soda. Food Politics. 3.1.22, https://www.foodpolitics.com/2022/02/the-coming-influx-of-hard-soda/
Dario Dongo
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE – GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.