OVC Meeting of the Minds highlights urgency in saving old vines

17 NOVEMBER 2025By Amanda Barnes. THE DRINK BUSINESS

More than 400 attendees from 14 countries gathered in California for the first international Old Vine Conference, uniting industry leaders around the mission to protect historic vineyards. The event highlighted economic, cultural and communication challenges — and the urgent need for global collaboration.

Held over five days across Napa, Sonoma and Lodi, the conference featured 39 speakers from 10 countries, alongside tastings of more than 250 old-vine wines.

“This landmark event has shown that collaboration across regions, countries and generations is key to securing the future of these precious vineyards,” said Belinda Stone, executive director of The Old Vine Conference.

Amanda Barnes MW highlights some key takeaways from the conference:

A tougher market and a tougher sell

Several speakers pointed to the global economic climate as an additional headwind for old-vine wines, which already face higher farming costs and often sit outside the most commercially dynamic categories.

Across sessions, a recurring theme was visibility — or the lack of it. “Where we spend our money is powerful,” said Sarah Abbott MW, co-founder of The Old Vine Conference. “I’m trying to convince trade to categorise old vines on their websites or wine lists, and it is really very hard.”

While the idea of organising restaurant wine lists by vine age has some appeal to engaged high-end consumers, retailers warned that it remains a secondary interest for most consumers.

“We do highlight the old-vine aspect, but we get asked about origin and price point more,” said Scott Stewart, GM at Skurnik Wine. “It’s more a case of us pushing out the information as part of the sale.”

The labelling conundrum and consumer perception

Certification stickers for old vines were also debated repeatedly. “[Bottle] stickers add a labour issue,” noted Peter Granoff MS, co-proprietor of Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant in San Francisco. “I’d much rather see a logo incorporated into the wine label itself. We already see that ‘no added sulphites’ on a label influences customers who feel they’re allergic. A clear old-vine mark would help us communicate that without adding back-of-house work.”

Still, Granoff cautioned that “people aren’t coming in asking for old vines. It resonates when talking about the wine — but mainly when it’s Zinfandel.”

Research presented by Christian Miller, research director at the Wine Market Council, revealed a significant disconnect between trade and consumer perception. “Old vines will never be the primary selling point — varietal or brand will always lead — but it is a powerful secondary cue,” said Miller. “It can be a tie-breaker in a purchasing decision.”

Speakers repeatedly emphasised that knowledge sharing at the point of sale remains the most effective route to increasing engagement with old-vine wines.

Varietal prejudice and the Zinfandel ceiling

In California, the image of old vines is closely intertwined with Zinfandel, which presents its own challenges.

“Old vines in California are inextricably linked to Zinfandel, and Zinfandel has had a price ceiling on it,” said Morgan Twain-Peterson MW, President of the Historic Vineyard Society and owner at Bedrock Wine Co with centenarian Zinfandel vines. “The challenge is how do you crack through that? At Bedrock, we sell 80% of our wine direct to consumer, so it is a direct conversation with them.”

Tegan Passalaqua, winemaker at Turley and co-founder of the Historic Vineyard Society, urged the trade and media to help break the stigma: “Write something positive about Zinfandel!” he said, while also stressing the need for inclusive communication about sustainability and heritage

“There was a problem where we were shaming people for not drinking organic, which is terrible,” Passalaqua added. “We need to be welcoming and inclusive first. Meeting people where they are comfortable — that’s how we appeal to younger generations.”

Building an international old vine community

Although no single conclusion emerged regarding how to reach new consumers amid globally declining wine consumption, the event succeeded in forging new connections between producers, educators, researchers and media.

There was broad agreement on the urgency of acting now — to preserve historic vineyards, improve global understanding, and build a more unified international community of old-vine champions.

“Hosting the global old-vine community here in California — home to some of the world’s most remarkable old vineyards — has been an honour,” said Rebecca Robinson, Executive Director of Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP). “The exchange of knowledge and shared sense of purpose this week has been truly inspiring.”

For more information on future events and the mission of The Old Vine Conference, visit www.oldvines.org/events.