American Malbec Producers Are Onto Something

BY MARSHALL TILDEN III6 MIN READ. THE WINE ENTHUSIAST

For most wine drinkers, Argentina is the go-to region for Malbec. It’s the grape that made Mendoza famous, delivering plush, dark-fruited reds that generally offer tremendous value for the price points. But long before Malbec became synonymous with Argentina, like so many of the popular grapes across the “new” wine world, it got its start in Europe.

Malbec’s original home is Cahors, located in Southwest France, where it produces deeply colored, structured wines once known as “black wine.” It is also at home in Bordeaux, where it remains one of the five permitted red grapes, historically used in small quantities to add color and tannic structure. Over time, however, Bordeaux largely moved on from Malbec, favoring Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, leaving Malbec uninvited to sit at the cool kid’s table.

However, over the past two decades, Malbec has found new purpose in the U.S., particularly in West Coast regions like California, Washington, and Oregon. What’s being produced out West is not an imitation of the Mendoza or French styles of Malbec. Rather, it’s finding its own swagger and vibe.

These West Coast American Malbecs combine power with precision, structure with drinkability, and, perhaps most importantly, serious quality with prices that are still fairly easy on the wallet.

Malbec’s Big Moment

California has had a decent level of Malbec production for decades, most often as a blending grape in Bordeaux-style wines—reminiscent of its role in France. But in regions like Napa Valley and Paso Robles, winemakers are now bottling Malbec as a single varietal, drawn to its ability to deliver deep color, concentrated black fruits, and a tannic structure that gives grip when the wines are young, while helping them to age gracefully over time.

Paso Robles, in particular, has proven to be a natural fit. Warm days ensure full ripeness, while cool evenings preserve acidity, creating wines that feel ripe yet vibrant and full of fresh blueberry fruit. Because Napa is warmer, the fruit leans toward the darker side. These wines can come across a bit more serious than playful, and can be laid down in the cellar if they are coming from top producers.

“California—and Napa in particular—is producing these big, bruising, ink-colored wines, with tannins that you can chew on for days,” says Rich Mitchell, director of food and beverage at Westchester Hills Golf Club in New York. 

Washington State has also proven to be one of the most compelling homes for American Malbec. The Columbia Valley’s diurnal temperature swings, defined by hot days and cool nights, allows the grape to build concentration without sacrificing aromatics or freshness.

“Washington Malbec brings together the power you see in Mendoza with the refinement you associate with Cahors and Bordeaux,” says Marc Newman, founder and wine director at The Social Wine Bar in Richland, Washington. “It’s a combination that feels both deliberate and distinctive.” 

A few years ago, Newman and I toured some of the Washington wineries that were just coming into their own with their Malbec bottlings, as well as others who had been at it for years. It was so interesting to see how the pioneers like Barnard Griffin and Col Solare were producing almost Cabernet-style wines with intentional extended oak aging, while smaller wineries like Frichette and Fidelitas were leaning towards fresher and more vibrant bottlings. Malbec’s versatility was on full display, and it was thrilling.

Even Oregon, a state best known for its Burgundian-style Pinot Noir, is finding room for Malbec. Plantings in the Rogue Valley and Applegate Valley are increasing, as these are a bit warmer than the more coastal regions, where the grape can achieve full phenolic ripeness. Cooler areas yield more restrained, earthier expressions that are even closer to Pinot in color and depth. But when Malbec finds those warm and sunny hillside spots, the wines tend to be elegant and refined… and come closest to the OG style from Cahors.

Love Cab? But Not The Price Tag?

With the popularity of West Coast Cabernet at an all-time high, it’s not shocking to see the current uptick in Malbec from the same regions. Think about it: both grapes are helping to produce wines that boast dark fruit, firm tannins, and a natural affinity for oak. Blackberry, plum, cassis, and savory spice are very common in both, as is their ability to pair with steak(thank you, tannins) and to age in the cellar.

Oak aging further bridges the gap, adding layers of vanilla, baking spices, and dark cocoa powder while rounding out the wine’s texture. Like Cabernet, Malbec has the ability to evolve gracefully, with primary fruit giving way to notes of leather, tobacco, and truffle mushrooms over time.

“With its generous dark-fruit character and natural relationship with oak, domestic Malbec has really connected with our guests lately,” says Victor Dedushaj, director of operations for the Benjamin’s Steakhouse restaurant group.

And don’t forget about the value factor. Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most in-demand grapes in the world, particularly in Napa or Bordeaux, and that popularity can come with a hefty price tag. Malbec can offer a remarkably similar experience, especially when grown in the right sites, and it comes at a tremendous discount more often than not.

The Future of American Malbec

As wine drinkers aim to look beyond the usual suspects, especially in pursuit of good value, Malbec is well-positioned for even further growth and popularity in the U.S. Sommeliers are increasingly turning to domestic Malbec to surprise and delight guests, providing many of them with their first American Malbec epiphany wine experience.

Having recently visited Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes wine region of New York, and sampling Malbecs from some of my favorite wineries there, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this region, along with other emerging U.S. regions in places like Virginia, North Carolina, and Texas, see success with their experimental Malbec plantings. Needless to say, American Malbec is just getting started.