Pinot Grigio Is Ready to Prove the Haters Wrong
BY WINE ENTHUSIAST5 MIN READ
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There is far more to Pinot Grigio than the bland, mass-produced bottles would have you believe. In fact, the fresh white wine is more exciting than ever—and not just in Italy. From Alsace to California, the varietal (also known as Pinot Gris in French and Grauburgunder in German) is producing compelling whites worth talking about, in a broad range of styles.
“Pinot Grigio is in a fascinating place these days; it’s a chameleon,” says Master SommelierJosh Nadel, Beverage Director at NoHo Hospitality Group. “On one hand, we see the tried-and-true style that has made Pinot Grigio so popular: fairly neutral, easy to drink, and agreeable, if not forgettable.”
What excites Nadel, however, are the Pinot Grigios “produced as a counterpoint, with greater ambition and artisanal goals,” he says. “Some of these growers include skin contact, others aim for site specificity and others employ progressive viticulture, low yields, and novel or historical winemaking and aging practices.”
Since the grape’s introduction to Italy via Piedmont in the 19th century, the bulk of Pinot Grigio has been produced in the Veneto region. But other regions are producing highly-prized versions with more depth. In Friuli, the traditional “ramato” vinification style lends the wine a copper hue. Meanwhile, in the heights of Alto Adige the aromatic Pinot Grigios are known for finesse and complexity.
“To many, Pinot Grigio may seem to fit into one easy category of light white wine, but that is far from the reality,” says Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Jeff Porter, who reviews Italian wines. “Exploring its diversity is what makes these wines so special and unique, so if you want crisp and vibrant or an elegant, copper-hued ramato, Pinot Grigio is here for you.”
Pinot Grigio vs. Pinot Gris: What’s the Difference?
A mutation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio is a darkly colored, gray-blue grape—one of the darkest grapes that white wine is made from. This grayish hue has earned it the moniker “Pinot Gris” in some parts of the world, like in France’s Alsace region, where you can expect elegant, richly-colored versions with structure and body. In Oregon, the grape is typically called Pinot Gris, as well.
However, its name can be “pretty regional,” says Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Matt Kettmann, who reviews wines from Southern California and the state’s Central Coast. While it’s most often called Pinot Grigio in California, “the warmer areas tend to call it ‘Grigio,’ while the coastal regions tend to use ‘Gris.’”
The differences in terroir and style is generally what leads to these different names. Generally, Pinot Gris is produced in cooler regions (Alsace, Oregon) and tends to be fuller-bodied, in contrast to the crisp acidity of the well-known Veneto versions.
Either way, these wines have much more range than the “oceans of innocuous, neutral white which have stigmatized this varietal for two generations of wine drinkers,” says Nadel. “There is a lot more that can be done with this grape.”
Trentino-Alto Adige
Right on the border of Austria, Italy’s northernmost wine region is a high-elevation Pinot Grigio paradise. “I love the balance between richness and freshness found in Alto Adige,” says Porter. Also called Südtirol (South Tyrol in English), Alto Adige boasts some of the most vibrant, elegantly structured Pinot Grigio in Italy.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Cantina Terlano 2024 Tradition Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige)
This is mountain Pinot Grigio that reminds you why Alto Adige is special – crystalline purity from those porphyry soils meets the variety’s natural generosity. There’s that signature Terlano tension between richness and precision, like Alpine sunshine caught in a glass. The texture says “serious wine” while the energy keeps you coming back for another sip. Editors’ Choice. 92 Points — Jeff Porter
Cantina Lavis 2023 Pinot Grigio (Trentino)
Crisp aromas of mountain apples mingle with fresh herbs and alpine flowers, evoking a sense of clean, high-altitude air. The palate reveals a streak of minerality that complements its fruity core. Balanced and refreshing, this Pinot Grigio is a great example of what this variety can be when a producer does what is right in the vineyards. 90 Points — J.P.
$12 Universal Fine Wine & Spirits
Kettmeir 2023 Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige)
Enticing scents of ripe pear, honey blossom, and a whisper of almond greet the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with flavors of golden apple and apricot with a unique balance between a creamy texture and crisp acidity. This wine showcases the elegance and finesse of Pinot Grigio. 90 Points — J.P.
Friuli Colli Orientali
Within the northeastern region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, the steep vineyards of Friuli Colli Orientali are known for producing Pinot Grigio with stunning complexity. Its vicinity to the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea creates a favorable microclimate: The mountains shield vines from harsh winter storms, while the sea sends in warm breezes that encourage ripening.
“These wines are bright and aromatic, with fresh herbs, a buoyant mid palate, and higher acidity,” says Tonya Pitts, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large and California wine reviewer. “They are great as a sipper or with snacks.”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Livio Felluga 2021 Curubella Pinot Grigio (Friuli Colli Orientali)
The subtle rose gold hue is your first hint that this isn’t your everyday Pinot Grigio. Aromas spiral upward like a siren song, cherry blossoms, fresh-snipped herbs, honeydew, and delicate finger lime all weave together in mesmerizing layers. The palate is a revelation: orange oil and zest mingle with green almond notes, all wrapped in a salty, textured embrace that somehow manages to stay light on its feet. There’s volume here, but it moves with such grace. This is a wine that makes you pause and wonder, both totally delicious now and promising even more intrigue for those patient enough to cellar it. Cellar Selection. 96 Points — J.P.
Colutta 2024 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Colli Orientali)
This copper-glowing Pinot Grigio isn’t your usual poolside sipper. Apple orchards and fresh cherries mix it up in the glass while spring blossoms and crushed stones keep things interesting. Take a sip and you’ll find red apple skins leading to an unexpected burst of minerality and zingy citrus. The vibrant acidity seals the deal. If you’re looking for a basic white wine, keep walking. This one’s got personality for days. 91 Points — J.P.
Az.Agr. Visintini Andrea 2023 Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli)
Delicate citrus blossom and fresh-cut golden apples mingle with springtime jasmine and subtle crushed river stones. Fresh Friulian brightness shines through a silky, generous texture, where Meyer lemon, Anjou pear, and white peach flavors glide across the palate, carried by the region’s characteristic mineral-driven acidity. Best Buy. 90 Points — J.P.
Alsace
The majority of France’s Pinot Gris is grown in Alsace, its picturesque northeastern region bordering Switzerland and Germany. Here, the varietal is continuing to win over fans with super-rich wines of varying sweetness levels that pair harmoniously with food.“
Pinot Gris from Alsace is having a quiet revolution—equally compelling as a textured, dry white or a lush or off-dry pour,” says Aleks Zecevic, a Wine Enthusiast writer at large who reviews wines from the region. “And with skin contact, it steps into wilder territory: grippy, structured, sometimes flirting with the soul of a light red.”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
Gustave Lorentz 2016 Altenberg de Bergheim Vielles Vignes Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace)
Rich and inviting, this Pinot Gris leans into its slight sweetness with ripe fruit, warm spice, and a touch of brown sugar. The texture is generous yet balanced, with good acidity keeping it lively. A long, satisfying finish ties it all together, making for a well-crafted and enjoyable wine. 90 Points — Aleks Zecevic
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2022 Clos Windsbuhl Pinot Gris Pinot Gris (Alsace)
A beautifully focused and precise Pinot Gris from the renowned Clos Windsbuhl vineyard. Lighter and more subtle in flavor than typical Pinot Gris, this wine offers delicate notes of ripe pear, white flowers, and a hint of almond. The balance is impeccable, with a crisp acidity that gives the wine a sense of freshness and lift, while the finish lingers with a quiet, mineral-driven complexity. A refined expression that showcases the elegance and purity of this exceptional site. 92 Points — A.Z.
$90 San Francisco Wine Trading Co.
Sipp Mack 2019 Rosacker Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace)
A focused and well-made Pinot Gris with a touch of oxidative character that adds complexity to its profile. Rich flavors of baked apple, honeyed pear, and subtle nuttiness are balanced by lively acidity and a great spice kick. The wine is long and structured, with the oxidative notes providing an interesting contrast to its fresh, vibrant finish. A sophisticated wine with layers that unfold with each sip. 91 Points — A.Z.
California
It’s a beautiful time to drink California Pinot Grigio (and Pinot Gris). Kettmann is particularly excited about “the increasing interest in leaving Pinot Gris grapes on their skins to bring texture, color, and more flavor to the glass,” as it reveals a much wider range of what the varietal can do.
Given the grape’s “gray” name and darker skin color, Kettmann guesses that past Pinot Gris production showed “more texture and color than the clear versions” that dominate today. He adds: “Let history lead, and give that wine more character!”
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
J Vineyards 2023 Pinot Gris (California)
This wine is zesty, crisp, with aromas of guava, cantaloupe, lime zest, and notes of white florals on the nose. The flavors on the palate are passionfruit, peach, grapefruit segments, sliding morphing into lime black pepper cream, and a dry mineral finish. pair with smoked oysters, tuscan crackers and sunshine. 92 Points — Tonya Pitts
Keller Estate 2023 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Gris (Petaluma Gap)
This intense Pinot Gris delivers a complex nose of fresh citrus, tropical fruits, floral potpourri and ginger. The palate is a wave of generous citrusy acid, with flavors of tart pineapple, sage and white flowers, leading to a finish just loaded with pithy lemon. Editors’ Choice. 93 Points — Tom R. Capo
Assiduous Wines 2023 Pinot Gris (Santa Cruz County)
This bottling spent some time on the skins, evident on the lightly pink hue and earthy aromas of riverstone and settle citrus peel on the nose. The palate is very grippy in texture, showing blood orange zest, dusty soil and crushed rock flavors. 92 Points — Matt Kettmann
Oregon
Given its origins as a mutation of the state’s treasured Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris has long been the leading white wine grape in Oregon. Enthusiasm for the wine, however, has lagged–until recently. Now, Oregon Pinot Gris is experiencing a major comeback. Expect versatile white wines that are well-suited to seafood, as well as many with excellent aging potential.
Wine Enthusiast recommends:
King Estate 2023 Domaine Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)
Some people dismiss Pinot Gris as worthy of quaffing fun but little else. Those people should be unfriended. The Domaine is stainless steel-fermented and aged sur lie for eight months to add weight and depth. It has waxy lemon and Mirabelle plum aromas that intersect with a wisp of saline. Shiver-inducing acidity shines its spotlight on flavors like Granny Smith apples, thyme, and grilled scallops. Get some. Editors’ Choice. 93 Points — Michael Alberty
Apolloni 2023 Estate Pinot Gris (Tualatin Hills)
The waxy pineapple, banana and bubblegum qualities of jackfruit dominate an aromatic set that includes whiffs of lemongrass and salt water taffy. Zingy acidity then hits like a laser beam, blowing up flavors like honeydew melon and lime zest. This Pinot Gris for twisting by the pool. 91 Points — M.A.
Cooper Mountain 2023 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)
A powerful fresh-cut grass and wet stone aroma mixes in an earthy fashion with tangy wisps of white grapefruit and lemon peel. There’s plenty of lemon power on the palate as lemon zest and lemon verbena flavors mingle in a tingly fashion with a peperoncino note. I’m matching this tart treat with a plate of crab rangoons. Best Buy. 91 Points — M.A.